Each Chef Ought to Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.